Aquarium Snails| Saltwater Snail Species

Saltwater Aquarium Snails

With text book water parameters, you will still get algae. it's impossible to keep a reef tank free of detritus and algae for any length of time. The trick is to find the right snails and the right quantity of snails to maintain the tank in good condition. When combating algae, you need to know what type of algae you are dealing with. Your choices are Diatoms, Dinoflagellates, Film Algae, Red Slime (Cyanobacteria), Hair Algae, Bubble Algae, Bryopsis Algae and Calerpa Algae.

Saltwater Snail Chart Recommendations For Specific Algae Problems

Saltwater Snail for Specific Algae Problem - Hair Algae, Macro Algae, Cyano, Diatoms, Green Film Algae, Brown Film Algae, Detritus

In the marine tank, snails handle a variety of duties. Snails by nature are scavengers. They feed on detritus such as decaying plant matter, leftover uneaten food, and of most important to marine aquarist's they feed on algae growths. Its important when choosing your snails to remember that just about every saltwater snail has a preferred algae type. This algae type is the snails favorite food. Many will go to eating other things as mentioned above when necessary but their favorite will always be that algae. Why snails over other saltwater algae lovers? Simply put, aquarium snails can eat algae growths off of live corals without damaging the coral itself. Whether your tank is 4 months old or 4 years old, one of the best suggestions we can make is to not go crazy on the numbers of each species of snail you put in. You need enough snails to start servicing your reef tank or saltwater aquarium to keep algaes and detritus blooms under control, but not so many snails that there won't be enough food and often starve to death. Since you never really know how much food does each snail need to thrive in your aquarium we always suggest supplementing their diet. Saltwater snails will feed on tiny pieces of meaty foods such as brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, fish, scallop, and there are many available foods that contain what's necessary. Since your snails feed off of the surfaces of the tank such as the substrate, rock, etc. we always recommend small pellet food. Another suggestion we like and use is the dried algae sheets such as sold by To Little Fishes under the name "Sea Veggies" Or go to your local Chinese grocery-store and purchase a package of Nori sheets in packages.

Just because there's algae growing in your aquarium, its natural and part of the normal mini ocean you have created. But just like any ocean as long as its not polluted and your water parameter's are like it should be the algae shouldn't be taking over but still needs to be kept under control. So there's the answer to one of the most frequent questions asked. Do I still need snails and critters if my algae is under control? Yes you do because it won't stay under control without their help. Keeping the algae under control means that algae will grow and algae will become food. Your aquarium will never be clear of algae and it would not be a healthy tank if it were, instead it's in a good balance. Your algae helpers are being fed and are keeping your system in a good balance.

Zebra Turbo Snail
Picture of Zebra Turbo Snail

Description:The Zebra Stripe Turbo Snail, comes from Belize and is a great variation from the typical Mexican Turbo Snail. Zebra Stripe Turbo snails are great for battling green hair algae. At the same time, these snails will bulldoze loose rocks and may rearrange your aquarium. TLike its cousin the Mexican Turbo, The Zebra Turbo Gram for Gram, will clean more nuisance algae ounce for ounce than any other snail. They do a great job on ridding a tank of hair algae and other nuisance algae scouring the entire saltwater aquarium, top to bottom. They do have the problem though of not being able to right their self back up if they fall over and onto their backs, they may die after a while if they aren't righted. Make sure to have rubble in the sand bed so they can right themselves, and avoid keeping turbo snails with aggressive fish that may intentionally flip them over. Pure work horses like their cousin Zebra Turbo's radula, or tongue, of the snail has a rasp like texture. When pulled across a surface, this rasp pulls the algae loose for a quick snack.

Tank Recommendations: Keep Zebra Turbo Snails with peaceful fish and in a tank with algae growth to graze on. For this reason they do best in mature tanks with well established live rock. Coming from the Pacific Ocean Zebra Turbo snails require water temperatures no higher than 78 degrees. Zebra Turbo's are moderately easy to keep as long as you watch your temperatures, refrain from using copper based medications and keep an eye on the levels of soluble waste since all saltwater snails are sensitive to nitrates.

Can they Right Themselves if they Get Upside-down?: Yes

Food and diet: Keep in mind that the Zebra Turbo Snail will starve if algae levels become sparse. Therefore, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. To feed, use an algae clip or wrap the seaweed around a rock or empty shell and place into your aquarium, next to the glass. To promote shell growth, supplement calcium levels in your aquarium.

Recommended Quantity: 1 per 10 gallons

Level of Care: Moderately easy

Reef Compatibility :Excellent

Approximate Purchase Size: 1" to 1-1/2"

Important Acclimation Notes: Mexican Turbo snails are sensitive to changes in water parameters including pH, temperature, and alkalinity. They need to be slowly acclimated to their new home using the drip method explained on our website for a minimum of 3 hours.

Price Each $2.49
Pack of 12 $28.68 (2.69 ea.)
Pack of 25 $57.25 (2.29 ea.)
Pack of 50 $109.50 (2.19 ea.)
Pack of 100 $209.00 (2.09 ea.)

Strawberry Conch
Strombus Luhuanus
Picture of Strawberry Conch

Description: The Strawberry Conch is one of the best sand sifter around without being destructive to your sand microfauna. Its considered an omnivore because they will eat both live and decaying vegetable matter, along with decaying organic matter, and leftover marine foods. They will eat any algae growing on the surface of the live sand bed, and other detritus on the bottom. It will never bother any reef tank inhabitants such as corals, clams, or other invertebrates. You only need 1 per 25 gallons to do a great job in the sand. If you wish to see these gentle inverts work, take a look at your tank around 3 o'clock in the morning. A night tour once in a while will show you whats going on in your tank. The Strawberry Conch uses it's 'trunk' like a vacuum to sift food from the live sand bed. This makes the Strawberry Conch a great live sand bed stirrer and cleaner. They prefer to stay in the sand and will slightly burrow, although not deep enough to disturb anaerobic areas deep in the sand. One nice feature of the Strawberry Conch is that they only grow to a max size of 3 inches, never out growing the tank.

Tank Recommendations: Must be kept in a tank with a live sand bed. We recommend that the Strawberry Conch be kept at a density of no more than 1 per 25 gallons. Higher densities may result in the conch out-competing each other for available food and you will need to leave algae strips such as Nori in the tank to be sure enough food exists. Best in mature tanks with a well established sand bed. Conch are easy to keep as long as you do not use any copper based medications and keep an eye on the levels of soluble waste since all saltwater snails are sensitive to nitrates.

Can they Right Themselves if they Get Upside-down?: Yes

Food and Diet: They can be additionally fed any algae derived food such as algae tabs, Nori algae sheets, frozen foods for a Tang, and even sinking Koi sticks. If they are observed climbing up the glass of aquariums, this usually means they are hungry and additional foods should be provided.

Recommended Quantity:1 per 25 gallons

Level of Care: Moderately Easy

Reef Compatibility:Excellent

Approximate Purchase Size: 2"

$12.99 each

Red Foot Conch
Opeatostoma pseudodon
Picture of Red Foot Conch

Description: The Red Footed Conch, also known as Thorn Latirus, lives in shallow water among stony corals and rocks and has a peaceful temperament. They are named after their bright red foot and by their single non-poisonous thorn that grows from the bottom of the lip of their shell. They are excellent sand sifters, and are very beneficial in the reef aquarium. As they burrow and dig through the aquarium substrate, they clean and aerate the bottom. Terrific for Cleaning Tanks with that ugly red or brown slime algae often seen. A hardy algae eaters , one of the few that will rid a tank of slime algae, they also love the brown diatoms found on the surface of live sand beds. They will stir and clean upper layers of the sand bed. One of the best reef tank detrivor's. As they burrow and dig through the aquarium live sand they clean and aerate the bottom. It won't bother any invertebrates or corals whatsoever. Once you add these to your tank, you won't ever regret it because they make a unique and different addition. We highly recommend these for their usefulness.

Tank Recommendations: Red Foot Conch must be kept in a tank with live sand. We recommend that they be kept at a density of no more than 2 per square foot of sand bed. Higher densities may result in the conch out-competing each other for available food and some may starve. For this reason they do best in mature tanks with well established live rock. Red Footed Conch are moderately easy to keep as long as you watch your temperatures, refrain from using copper based medications and keep an eye on the levels of soluble waste since all saltwater conchs are sensitive to nitrates.

Can they Right Themselves if they Get Upside-down?: Yes

Food and Diet: Red Foot Conch can be additionally fed any algae derived food such as algae tabs, Tang diet and even sinking Koi sticks. If they are observed climbing up the glass of aquariums, this usually means they are hungry and should be fed.

Recommended Quantity:2 per square foot of sand bed

Level of Care: Moderately Easy

Reef Compatibility:Excellent

Approximate Purchase Size: 1"

Price Each $6.99

Pack of 4 $25.96 (6.49 ea.)

Pack of 12 $65.88 (5.49 ea.)

Pack of 25 $124.75 (4.99 ea.)

Captive Raised Queen Conch
Strombus gigas
Picture of Captive Raised Queen Conch

Description: The Tank Raised Queen Conch is highly recommended for the saltwater marine aquarium because they are hardy and will eat nearly any type of algae, even slime algae. Besides cleaning the glass aquarium sides they will root through the upper layers of the sand bed, cleaning and aerating the sand of algae and diatoms. They are especially good for helping to keep reef tanks clean of detritus, and they will not injure the corals or the coralline algae. Tank Raised Queen conchs have a spiral-shaped shell with a glossy orange or pink interior. The Queen Conch is omnivorous; you should supplement its algae eating efforts with small pieces of fresh fish, frozen food, and dried seaweed. In the wild Queen Conchs can grow to a maximum of twelve inches (thirty-one centimeters) but in an aquarium they will likely stay about three inches, and will thrive in a home saltwater reef aquarium. It is best to purchase aquacultured (captive raised) Queen Conchs not only for the sake of the environment but because the tank raised snails are more brightly colored and adapt easier to their new aquarium environment.

Tank Recommendations: Must be kept in a tank with a live sand bed. We recommend that the Captive Raised Queen Conch be kept at a density of no more than 1 per 25 gallons. Higher densities may result in the conch out-competing each other for available food and you will need to leave algae strips such as Nori in the tank to be sure enough food exists. Best in mature tanks with a well established sand bed. Conch are easy to keep as long as you do not use any copper based medications and keep an eye on the levels of soluble waste since all saltwater snails are sensitive to nitrates.

Can they Right Themselves if they Get Upside-down?: Yes

Food and Diet: They can be additionally fed any algae derived food such as algae tabs, Nori algae sheets, frozen foods for a Tang, and even sinking Koi sticks. If they are observed climbing up the glass of aquariums, this usually means they are hungry and additional foods should be provided.

Recommended Quantity:1 per 25 gallons

Level of Care: Moderately Easy

Reef Compatibility:Excellent

Approximate Purchase Size: 2" to 3"

$19.99 each

Orange Chestnut Snails
Turbo castanea
Picture of Orange Chestnut Snails

Description: Orange Chestnut Snails (Turbo castanea) are prized for their incredible ability to eat vast amounts of algae. These hardy snails from the western Atlantic (Florida and the Caribbean). Like other turbo type snails they have the same top shape to their shell, but the bright orange color cannot be forgotten and is pure attraction in any size aquarium. Unlike their turbo brothers, these snails stay small, no larger than 1 inch so are less likely to knock over rock work and coral.

Tank Recommendations: Keep Orange Chestnut Snails with peaceful fish and in a tank with algae growth to graze on. For this reason they do best in mature tanks with well established live rock. Moderately easy to keep as long as you watch your temperatures, refrain from using copper based medications, and keep an eye on the levels of soluble waste since all saltwater snails are sensitive to nitrates.

Can they Right Themselves if they Get Upside-down?: Yes

Food and Diet: Keep in mind that the Orange Chestnut Snail will starve if algae levels become sparse. Therefore, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. To feed, use an algae clip or wrap the seaweed around a rock or empty shell and place into your aquarium, next to the glass. To promote shell growth, supplement calcium levels in your aquarium.

Recommended Quantity: 1 per 6 gallons

Level of Care: Moderately easy

Reef Compatibility :Excellent

Approximate Purchase Size: 1"

Important Acclimation Notes: The Orange Chestnut Snail is sensitive to changes in water parameters including pH, temperature, and alkalinity. They need to be slowly acclimated to their new home using the drip method explained on our website for a minimum of 3 hours.

Price Each $5.99

Pack of 12 $65.88 (5.49 ea.)

Pack of 25 $124.75 (4.99 ea.)

Pack of 50 $224.50 (4.49 ea.)

Spiny Star Snail
Lithopoma phobium
Picture of Spiny Star Snail

Description: The Spiny Star Snail is also called the Ninja Star Snail because the shells pointy projections resemble closely the hand held Star weapons the Ninja's are known for. Closely related to the regular “Astrea “ snail from the Caribbean, but have very pronounced spikes around the edge of their flatter shell. Along with the facinating shell the star shell has a superb appetite for cleaning many forms of nuisance algae. They will eat just about any thin film algae, but will also eat hair algae and other nuisance algae. They don't seem to eat coralline algae, and usually don't bother macro algae, most calcareous algae, and most fleshy algae. They may forage on some of the larger algae, but unless they are really hungry they don't tend to eat them.

Tank Recommendations: Keep the Spiney Star Snail with peaceful fish and in a tank with algae growth to graze on. Coming from the Caribbean, Spiney Star Snails are excellent for tanks that run on the warm side. Once well acclimated the Spiney Star Snail can handle water temperatures up to a maximum of 83 degrees but lower temperatures are definitely recommended. Spiney Stars snails are moderately easy to keep as long as you refrain from using copper based medications and keep an eye on the levels of soluble waste since all saltwater snails are sensitive to nitrates.

Can they Right Themselves if they Get Upside-down?: No

Food and diet: Keep in mind that the Spiney Star Snail will starve if algae levels become sparse. Therefore, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. To feed, use an algae clip or wrap the seaweed around a rock or empty shell and place into your aquarium, next to the glass. To promote shell growth, supplement calcium levels in your aquarium.

Recommended Quantity: 1 per 6 gallons

Approximate Purchase Size: 1/2" to 3/4"

Important Acclimation Notes: Spiney Star snails are sensitive to changes in water parameters including pH, temperature, and alkalinity. They need to be slowly acclimated to their new home using the drip method explained on our website for a minimum of 3 hours.

Price Each $4.99

Pack of 12 $53.88 (4.49 ea.)

Pack of 25 $99.75 (3.99 ea.)

Pack of 50 $174.50 (3.49 ea.)

Copyright 2018 Aquarium Creations Online. While Aquarium Creations does its best to make an accurate representation of marine life on our website there is no guarantee that the actual marine life delivered will match the colors seen on your computer. Often the color reproduction on a computer screen or mobil device may not be produce the correct colors.